Samaj gaya

Its been a bit of time since I've updated my blog, life has been fairly mellow with not much to report on. We've gotten into a life routine here in Banaras so we're not doing anything extra special or especially amazing, even though what we are doing is pretty special and amazing!

We've just returned this morning from a week in Puri. We left on the 12th after attending a really special puja ceremony at Panditji's house outside in the country. Panditji had a village ceremony to bless his temple and especially to bless the fire pit outside the temple, so we went and enjoyed the few hours we were there. We left fairly late as Martin was unwell and we had to check outo f our room in Godowli and head off to Mahmoorganj to drop off/pack up our stuff. As a result of us leaving later than everyone else, we got caught in absolute mayhem grindlock! It took almost 2 hours to go 25 km! We sat in horrendous traffic for about 45 min barely moving, and I wondered where we were in Varanasi. Martin looked out of the window and exclaimed that we were only close to the railway station which is only about 2 km from where we started! But we got to Panditji's village in one piece and when we arrived, it was worth waiting for. Panditji's beautiful family and all of their extended family was there, and a blazing fire surrounded by people lay in the middle. Two men were on a microphone saying prayers in Sanskrit and everyone was tossing offerings into the fire. Naganath sat at the head, pouring in ghee and offering other items like small chapatis and rice. The fire was alive, and poured out so much heat that the women around the circle had pulled their veils over their faces. I took a seat next to Nagnath and Martin and we joined the puja. The children eventually stole me away to the mustard fields where they picked mustard flowers for me and jumped all over me and each other. The kids are so happy and alive here, and completely free from the distractions of modern life like tv and playstation. There are so many of the kids at Panditji's as his family includes his 5 sisters and their families, and all thekids get along like they are all best friends. So sweet and lovely.

We caught our train later that evening from Mughal Serai, which is outside of Varanasi. The train station was really old school India, right off the backpackers trail. A pack of street performing children with matted hair and tattered clothes tried to earn a few rupees on the platform while amphetamine eyed young men trolled the platform, scratching their skinny arms. Finally the train came and we got on and both passed out til the morning.

The train was 7.5 hours late because there are problems with Maoist terrorists going through Bihar, so the train kept stopping for hours at a time. Armed guards paced the stations and came onboard to check the train. I was more annoyed than nervous as this train was dirty and this meant that we missed our day in Puri, instead spending it on a train full of dancing cockroaches. When we finally rolled in to the station at 7:30, I was in a right grump but once I stepped off the train and into the humid air I was happy. We caught a rickshaw right to the Pink House Hotel which is right on the beach, and thats where we found Choti.

Choti was curled up in a little ball with her ribcage sticking out. She hardly moved, or lift her head. She was a darling little 3 week old puppy, white with browny red spots and big brown eyes. She lay right in front of our door, and my heart broke the second that I saw her. I got some bread and milk for her and held her in my lap while she ate. She didn't have much energy, but I could tell that she was really sweet. Bedtime came, and we shut the door. Martin got busy hanging up the mosquito net while I unpacked our stuff. I heard a little whimper and then a huge wail, followed by a barrage of cries. I turned to Martin, who took one look at my face (which was now crying) and he said "Bring her in". And so she ended up next to our bed.

The next day, we went out to the school with Neneta, Umesh and a Portuguese lad named Orrille who is there for a month working on the school as part as his architect masters degree. I brought Choti along, where she slept in the sun and drank loads of milk.

The school has changed quite a bit since the last time we were there. There is another level that has been added, and the primary school wing (2 classrooms and a teachers room) has been built. We rolled up in a cloud of dust, and suddenly all the children ran out of their classrooms and came running toward us with beautiful handmade bouquets of flowers. We got swarmed with kids "Namaste! Como estas? How are you?" and many grabbed our hands and touched our feet. It was hugely moving, emotional, and so fantastic to see the kids.

The school has grown in size, and there are about 300 kids that attend every day now. The school was able to buy a small minibus with a very generous donation so now the children who travel home everyday don't have to walk the 7 km to their villages. The school has (sometime) electricity and running purified water. Another generous donation purchased 4 sewing machines so some of the older girls are learning how to sew. For the children who live there permanently, music and traditional dance classes are offered on the weekends. The children are doing so well and are all so happy. I was thrilled to see that everything was thriving at the school. Neneta and Umesh work tirelessly for the school, trying to raise funds and take care of the business side while always keeping energy and love for the children. It is truly moving to see what a huge difference 2 people can do. In all of our busy lives, we lose sight of the fact that we are able to make a difference. Maybe its because we feel that it may be only just us, or maybe that really life is too busy or challenging to think of adding on something else. But people like Neneta and Umesh are just 2 people who put an idea in action, and 7 years later, they are still going strong. They get so much energy from people who come to the school and who decide that they want to help in someway. Some people paint pictures on the wall, or take photographs. Some people, like Orrille, come from Barcelona to spend a month helping with the planning and construction of the new add on. Some people like us, give money and become an advocate.

There are so many places to give money in this world. There is an endless need for help. Quite often, where the money get sent isn't actually where the money goes. Umesh and Neneta spend every last rupee on the school. This school gives children in this truly impoverished state a chance for something else. Some are orphaned, or from broken homes. Some come from agricultured families, where the expectation is that the children should continue with the line of work and help their fathers. The very chance that these children get to escape this life and attend a school where they will actually end up with something to go out into the world and offer is amazing.

The school needs your help. Money goes a long way in India. A donation of even $10 helps so much. I will be collecting money in Canada for the school and will cover the costs to have to the funds tranfered to India. If you want to make a donation, Neneta, Umesh and all the children would be so grateful. Neneta received word that the bank where she worked for 40 years and who previously donated 3000 Euros a year would be unable to help this year as they have merged with another bank who can't afford to help. This was especially disastrous news for Neneta, who spent the evening really quiet and sad. This chunk of money is meant to cover so many things for the kids- primarily food, books, and clothes. The fact that this money is not coming, means that she is going to have to find it somehwere else. And so Martin and I promised her and Umesh that we would help find it. The children eat 4 times a day at the school (those wholive there permanently) and all kids are clothed and given books, pens, paper etc. It costs nothing for the kids to attend, but means that these children are given valuable education. For a child who is from a broken home with no future, this education is priceless. I will be collecting funds upon my return to Canada. Like Isaid, even a donation of $10 helps so much.

Martin has been quite unwell, so our time in Puri was more restful and he spent it convalescing. This trip has been hard on both of our health. We rented bikes and went for a bike ride to the Jaganath temple on Thursday and woke up before sunrise to have a beautiful bikeride along the coast line Friday morning before our train. Puri is such a lovely place. Its got a wild, tribal feel to it. Every temple is decorated so vidily with strange looking Hindu gods and goddesses. The temples are protected by big smiling lions that don big handlebar moustaches. Its fantastic. Puri is also full of honeymooners, so you see many awkward couples walking around or eating together. The women shyly look at the floor while the men shift around in their seats. Some of the more loved up ones are openly showing affection in the streets - holding hands or catching eyes of one another. Its not something I have seen outside of Puri, and I love it that they feel comfortable enough to show affection openly. The tribal women come in massive processions, wearing brightly coloured threadbare saris that barely cover thier breasts. There are still many bare chested tribes here in Orissa.

I noticed a large white tourist popluation here in Puri that I didn't see before. Many Goa type backpackers as well as Hare Kirshna devotees. When we were here before, we didn't see hardly any other white tourists. But the secret ,ust be out about how great (and cheap!) Puri is. Shame really as I see that its already changing. BUt thats the downfall of travelling I guess.

Choti has developed into a proper little puppy. We spent the rest of the week caring for her, bringing her everywhere we went. She became quite the celebrity around the town. In only a few days, she started to get fat and rolypoly and started to play with us. She was especially sweet in the mornings, where she would prance at our feet and yip while wagging her tail feriously upon seeing us. We decide to bring her to Varanasi in the hopes that we can leave her at Panditji's house out in the country where she would have fields to run in, lots of kids to play with, and a tranquil lifestyle. We put her in a box and brought her on the train, where again she became the little celebrity onboard. I had to take her to wee either in the western style loo or out on the platform when we stopped, and aside from 1 accident in the carriage, things went well. Martin was adamant that I use the western style loo with her as he didn't want me to lose her down the hole onto the tracks if we used the squat style toilets. He said he didn't want to deal with me after a situation like that! Choti is now here in Varanasi with us, and is doing well. She is playing and biting verything in sight, and has taken to nuzzling up in Martin's elbox or pulling on his massive beard. Its hilarious and darling. I just love this dog!! I wish I could bring her back to Canada, but its impossible. So lets hope that Panditji can take her in.

The last 6 days I have here in India will be spent in Varanasi. I have a flight booked on the 25th to Bombay, where I have 13 hours to wait before flying to London on the 26, where I arrive at 7 am. I have the 26th in London getting sorted and then flying back to Vancouver on the 27th. Its going to be a long 3 days of travel, and I'll be very sad to leave India, Choti, and Martin behind. Martin will stay for another month before returning to the UK, and then *hopefully* Canada sometime in late April. I imagine that these last days here in Varanasi will be full of yoga, Choti time, and spending time at the temple. I also want to get my chai and chili paneer fix in so I will make sure to fit these in as well.

Hard to believe that my trip here is nearing the end. But I must get on with stuff back at home and as Nicky always says "India isn't going anywhere". I can come back anytime I want. I'm looking forward to seeing everyone in London and Canada, and getting back to work (and getting a paychq!!). My time here in India hasn't been the adventure that it was last time, but I feel a deeper connection to the land and its people. I'm seeing it all in a way that I only glimpsed before, and its wonderful.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Rest time

Sorry I've been offline for the past week, I've viciously sick and I haven't had the energy to email, call or even do schoolwork!

I accidently drank Ganga water at the temple last Wednesday, that was given to me by a fill in at the temple as Naganath was in Allahabad. I thought that it was mineral water as it was sweet, tasted very clean and was actually delicious. Martin told me (after I told him that I drank from the brass pot) that that water was the water he collected right from Manikarnika (the burning ghat!). I was fine for the rest of that night and Thursday until we got to Allahabad.

Martin was asked by Naganath to come join him in Allahabad for a huge mela (festival) that happens every year. The festival is in Allahabad, at the site where the rivers Ganges and Yamuna meet. There are certain days where it is most important for pilgrims to go and bathe in the meeting spot where the two rivers meet. It is very important to take a dip at this spot regardless, of the date but on some days it is even more beneficial. We decided to go for one night, so Martin arranged a driver and off we went to Allahabad.

We had a really great driver Ramballak who spoke no english but was very enthusiastic and wonderful. The drive to Allahabad was about 3 hours, and we drove through many small villages where we saw families making beautiful carpets, elephants on the highway and goats in turtleneck sweaters! I found this to be particularly amusing, and kept entertaining Martin about this the entire trip.

As we hit Allahabad, we were stuck in the most ting tong traffic jam I have ever encountered. The street was jam packed to the point that I do not understand how cars made it through the throng without injuring anyone. This was only the beginning of what madness Allahabad was!

We drove over the bridge and for as far as the eye could see on both sides of the rivers where tents and little shanty huts. At first I thought it was a slum, but then as I looked closer I realised how uniform and in good condition everything was. It turned out that this was the festival that we were going to. the festival ground spans up to 25 km on both sides of the river, and the previous day (which was one of the auspicious dates) had over 800,000 pilgrim bathing in the river!!!! I started to get nervous as 1) This was a really important festival 2) I didn't realise that we'd be "camping" so I didn't bring along enough clothes (the nights are still cold here) 3) I felt really unprepared for this festival and what it means. We followed many buses and rickshaws stuffed to the gills with people to the festival site, which was absolutely flooded with people. People sat by the roadsides selling everything- from religious tat to cheap Chinese made toys. Loud speakers belted out announcements and music, while ice cream vendors sullenly pushed their carts past their competitors. Horse drawn carts carrying 2-3 entire families passed by as holy men waved incence. We didn't know where to go, so we turned down a road and parked until we could get ahold of Naganath or someone in his group that could tel us where to go. we didn't even know if we were on the right side of the river. We sat in the car for hours waiting for someone to either show up at the meeting spot or for us to know where to go. I amused myself by watching the scenes outside our window and watching the people watching us.

martin and Ramballak eventually left to go to the meeting spot, so I waited alone for about an hour and became increasingly nervous about being at the festival. I felt really unprepared about being there, and suddenly felt flung into a situation that I wasn't ready for. I described it to Martin like I had been invited to sit and have lunch with the Pope in the Vatican City- I don't speak the language, I don't know what all the rituals, movements, and ceremonies mean and I ultimately was surrounded by strangers. By the time Martin got back with Trouble #1 (more on him later) and a man we called Punditji- I was in a full on bad and stressed out mood.

Punditji directed us to a campsite that was miles away (good thing that we didn't try to find it on our own!) and we drove literally into a whole new city. It was madness.

It was full and I mean full of people, shopping, little makeshift halls for religious people to go and have a rant, music caves, statues of deities, dabbhas...everything. Martin said that it was like rolling into the Indian version of Glastonbury or Burning Man, but add 300,000 more people. It was insanse.

We ended up in the "VIP" area, a privately guarded area that was really serene and peaceful funded entirely by a right mad man Baba Boginath. Baba Boginath was a chubby Brahmin priest that wore a rick collection of necklaces and rings while scratching his belly and talking about how he was going to take over the world. By day, he is a Bollywood executive producer, by night a full on Brahmin priest. He was the epitome of the "Guru" that naive Westerners may be taken in by, he commands a strict and pious presence while he goes off on huge tangents. He was intimidating, impressive, crazy but very very very generous. He pays for everything in this area- music, servants, the tents that are equipped with straw and blankets and mats, food etc. The area had about 10 tents, ours being the biggest one, and was closely guarded. His servants were lovely men who took good care of me, when I became ill.

Naganath was in the large tent resting when we arrived, and it was lovely to see him. He had a few people from the temple with him- an American woman who was his new devotee, his newphew (Trouble #1), Punditji and a few others. We had some chai and went down to the river so that everyone w\could have a dip and so that I could see the rivers. I was in a really bad mood out of fear from the situation and tried to talk myself out of it, but the person that broke my mood was Trouble #1. He is a 17 yr old Brahmin boy (Naganath's newphew) who was so sweet, cheeky as hell and took a shining to me. He became my instant bodyguard and tourguide of the area. He was then joined by Trouble #2 Punditji's newphew who was 16, so sweet and eager to please, and politely cheeky. These two boys turned my experience around in a heartbeat, and thus I began to relax.

Punditji, Martin, Trouble #1 & 2 took us out for food and an evening walk so that we can check out a minute view of the festival. Martin and I were in disbelief about the festival, it was so insane but so so beautiful. However, I started to feel ill and we went back to the tents, where I ended up getting very sick. Baba Bolinath took me and Martin into his tent so that he could talk to us and give me medicine. It was overwhelming for me to be in his tent sucking on horrible tasting sulphuric tablets while listening to his rants, but Trouble #1 & 2 popped in and secretely made fun of him when Baba Bolinath wasn't looking. It was supremely hilarious and horribly cheeky!!!

I went to bed early and had the longest and more uncomfortable "sleep" of my life. Speakers blared music and religious mantras all night long and my bones ached and ached. I felt so nauseous, and ended up being sick in the night. Baba Bolinath generously offered me use of his toliet which was convienently close to the tent so I made sure that offer was taken! At 4 am, everyone woke up and went for a dip in the river. I curled up in the warm spot that Martin left behind and slept for a few hours. At 6 am, Martin came and woke me and took me outside into an absolutely surreal scene. Thick fog had infiltrated the camp and you couldn't see anything except the rising ball that wasthe sun. It was amazing and so dreamlike.

I went to the river with Punditji, Martin, and Naganath later on in the morning for a dip and a littl eprayer. There were so many people in the river, boys splashing around, women cleaning themselves, men sitting on the bank and staring over the sea. sadly, I started to get sick again, so we returned to the camp where I took to bed for the rest of the day.

Everyone took such care for me. Punditji went to the onsite hospital to get me some medicine, while Trouble 1 & 2 kept me thoroughly amused. Naganath kept me by his side, and Martin fretted and fretted. The servant boys came and sat and stared at me (what I fright I must have looked!) and got me water anytime my bottle got 1/2 empty. The care and kindness I experienced by strangers made me ashamed of my thoughts and mood from the night before. Martin decided that I should get back to Banaras, so off we went.

We went to Punditji's house yesterday, which is 20 km outside of Varanasi in a vibrant and lush agricultural area. Sadly, I was sick for the entire visit so I missed out on the walk, the beautiful lunch, and generally enjoying the serenity. But all the children kept me laughing, and they were all full of cuddles and games for me while I rested. It was fantastic to get out of Varanasi for a day though, and meet Punditji's family.

We are staying put here in Varanasi for another week and then we will go to the school in Puri for 5 days next Monday. Nenetta is here in India and will be waiting us in Puri. Nenettasaid that so many advancements have been made at the school, so we are excited to go and see what's happening. I'm keeping a low profile, resting and trying to do schoolwork. Martin has goe off to get me some medicine this morning so hopefully that will help me. I am feeling better though thi smorning, and managed to eat some toast so hopefully I'm on the mend. Being sick in Varanasi is NOT the place to be if you have a queasy stomach. The only place where I don't get sick is on the ghats where there is a fresh breeze. But I have to get through a few tiny and twisted streets full of garbage, cow poo and other rancid things first!!! Ah well. Lets hope I'm on the mend.

Love to you all.

xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Banarasi

In Varanasi. Full of chai. Dangerous combination.

We made it to the land of utter havoc and chaos (a.k.a Varanasi) in 1 piece on Sunday afternoon after a long 2 days of travel. Our night bus from Goa to Bombay was a very rough, uncomfortable and cringeworthy trip consisting of trecherous and sharp hairpin turns, forcing me, Martin, and our luggage to crash into each other, dirty condensation from the filthy ceiling to drop on my head and the utterly enjoyable feeling that we were "sleeping" on jackhammers- every possible bump on the road or shutter of the long gone brakes we felt to our very core. If I had had false teeth, they would have been good and rattled! Alas we didn't sleep a wink but it all makes for an amusing memory and a laugh!

We rolled into Bombay and went directly to the train station Lokmanya Tilek to try our luck to see if we could get on the 12 noon train to Varanasi. Maybe it was because life in Goa was truly shanti and things were relatively easy, but Bombay felt like an assault on all my senses. The air is thick with smog and dirt, the streets are screaming full of honking horns, people eye you with a glint of curiosity and potential schemes, men having a wee at every possible wall and some even pulling down their pants to defacate on the shoulder of the road not caring who is getting a real good look at their nether regions. Getting to Lokmanya wasn't too hard, but once we got there people tried to convince us that we couldn't get tourist quota tickets there (an obvious ploy to get us into their taxi and take us to CST). The waiting room was jam packed full of people sitting with their extended families, sleeping on cardboard and tatty blankets while the mosquitoes and flies circled their heads. We were the only westerners in the whole terminal and so we got watched every move we made. The terminal was the dirtiest place I had experienced since coming to India. The bathrooms were gag worthy and completely rancid (with women actually sleeping on the floor), dirt everwhere and people spitting paan or shooting snot out of their nostrils. I was horrified, and tried to sit as still as possible, trying not to touch anything. We ended up waiting at Lokmanya for 4 hours, while we tried to get a reserved seat on the train to Varanasi. In the end, we scored 2 tickets in 2A/C (!!) and off we went. The train journey was really pleasant actually and the train was quite clean, especially after sitting in th etrain terminus for 4 hours. Martin and I ended up in a quiet carriage, me on the upper bunk, and we watched movies on our laptop, slept, I did some school work and we ate and drank loads of food and chai. I slept the best that night since arriving in India and the journey passed off without a glitch. The scenery was amazing - we saw gorgeous jagged finger-like hills pointing up toward the skies, and many many rivers and dusty villages. Passing through Allahabad was quite dismal and depressing, and brought me to the understanding that we had indeed entered Northern India. Piles and piles and piles of broken plastic bags, empty water bottles, and misc. trash piled up everywhere with kids aimlessly kicking it, women cooking in it and changing babies, dogs scavenging and cows eating it all. One poignant picture was of a man sitting in a bright red plastic chair reading the newspaper in a stream of sunlight, behind him a massive garbage heap and in front of him a rotting away home. Very dismal indeed.

We rolled into Varanasi 28 hrs later, and arrived through a thick brown haze of smoke. The second we exited the train, a fight broke out between 2 men who both tried to talk to us and get us into their taxi. The winner of the fight then joined Martin and I and tried to convince Martin that we should let him take us to his place. Martin told him off and we fought our way to a cycle rickshaw further down the road to the station. We are in Varanasi, fully primed and on constant alert.

We've been here now for 4 days, and I am slowly adjusting. I have forgotten how hard this city is on the body, and how much energy it takes out of me. North India is very poor so the people are aggressively hungry, pestering you every second and trying to take you off to their shop, their uncle's shop, their sisters' husbands' son's brother's shop. There is cow poo everwhere, and my left foot has had the unfortunate opportunity to continuously slide right through it. The streets are full of paan juice and spit, garbage, goats, puppies, food, motorcycles, barefoot pilgrims, tourists, touts. If you have ever been to Varanasi, you will know how tiny the streets are just off the ghats. I'm not sure if it is because I am older, or if it's because I am here with Martin or if its because I remember this all before, but I have lost my luster in trying to deal with people as everyone just wants something (money really) from me and I don't have the energy to bargain or even attempt to engage with most people. I'm just sticking to dealing with people I know (like Prem & his wife) and not relly getting involved with anyone else. It may sound like I am not happy to be here, I am indeed, its just that this place takes so much out of you...you need an adjustment time once the magic of being here has started to wear off. Varanasi is a very dark place, I mean after all its the place where Hindus come to die! I just need a bit of rebalancing thats all.

Speaking of which, Premu told me about a yoga college close to his place in Mahmoorganj that I went to yesterday to check out. Its a proper school, which is a relief after all the crazy fake yoga tourist traps! The school is called Brahmavarchas International Yoga Academy and is run by a man named Yogi Vikas. The school offers 6 classes a day, and is open to men, women of all ages. It was really refreshing to see who comes to the classes- its a mix of young and old, able bodies and disabled. the best part is that for 6 days a week, it is only 1600Rs a month each! fantastic. We went to our first class today, and had private instruction by Yogi Vikas and one of his teachers. In the hour class, we only went through 4 poses, but did 5 repetitions on each. Its not very vigorous, but it is very very good and you can get the full benefits of the poses. We will add 4 asanas each day.

We are off to Allahabad tomorrow for a day or so for a festival, and then will head to the orphanage in Puri at the end of next week.

I will be flying back to London on the 26th of Feb and back to Vancouver on the 27th, so I will see most of you soon. Bit of a bummer that Ican see the end already but nevermind, I got to India in the fisrt place!

Also got some good news today that the first stage of Martin and I's application of Martin's perm. residence has been accepted! I'm happy and relieved. So hopefully London will be as accomodating and Martin's papers will come in soon.

Big love to all.

xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Bombay Bound

On our final day in Arambol, just getting ourselves sorted for our big trip up north to Varanasi. I'm a little bit sad as our week here has been really good for us, for our senses, and just getting back to normal after our experience in kollur. The week here in Arambol has been really chilled and relaxed, lots of yummy fresh food, yoga, swimming in the Arabian Sea and getting really hardcore body work massage from Martin's friend Adam, who is amazing. Adam really gets into the muscle, deeper than deep and does lots of painfully deliciousl work. I was covered in bruises the other after I finished my session with him, but for the first time in years I have no neck pain and my bodyfeels less rigid! So 2 thumbs up to Adam! Definitely worth checking him out if you pop over this way. We've spent quite a nice amount of time with Adam and his Kundalini teacher partner Virium over the past week, so its been really lovely.
Yesterday Martin and I decided to rent a cherry red Royal Enfield motocycle and take it for a ride across norther Goa. So off we went, and embarked on a7 hr adventure without any clue where we were headed.
We drove through shady coconut groves, past elementary schools (with sweet girls in matching uniforms and red bows in their braids), through small villages, past vast lagoons of turquoise water until we reached the ferry (complete with a completely pagal ranting local!) which consisted of a rusted out hull of a boat, to take us across the estuary to the next state of Majharasta. From there we peeled up steep hills and across wide open lanes until we ended up at a beautifully neary empty white sand beach where we swam in the waves and relaxed our bums. It was so peaceful there, devoid of any beach shack restos and pumping music. Eagles soared overhead while the lone dog cantered down the sand. It was exquisite.
After catching some rays (my feet are finally looking less white!) we continued on, keeping the coast on our left shoulder and sticking to jungle paths. We finally found ourselves in a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, where we were probably the only whities around for miles. We stopped for the best cup(s) of chai I have had to date in India this trip and gorgeous samosas, trying to block out the non-so-subtle curiousity of us standing on the corner, Martin talking Hindi and me munching samosas. After our delectable meal, we hopped back on and headed back to the ferry, only getting a little lost on the way back. We got back at nearly 7 pm wind blown, dusty and supremely happy.
We are off to Bombay tonite on an overnight bus which means we should get there at 8:30am Saturday morning. We are going to chance our arm that we can get on a train to Varanasi tomorrow, but my foot is down that since it's a looong 28hr journey, I refuse to travel 3A/C (so much for the adventurous hippy I am!!). So if we cannot get on 2 or 1AC, then we'll spend a night in Bombay and head out on Sunday. The original plan was to fly to Varanasi, but the flights are ridiculously expensive (starting at nearly 10,000 Rs) so its the long awaited (dreaded?) train journey. At least 1 have lots of boring uni reading to do!
Sending you all some Goan love and sunshine.
Ashley xxxxxxxxxxx

Backtrack

We made it back to Arambol in 1 piece today, we are both really tired and deficient in vitamins from Kollur. The train ride here was epic...picture the busiest train you have ever seen, picture it really really filthy, and then times it all by 200%. Yup, that was our train ride from Karnatika back to Goa. Martin warned me that it would be a real local train (we had caught the wrong train down to Karnatika on the way down and aside from us being squished, it was no big deal) but when it rolled up and everyone started to swarm into the doors, I took a deep breathe of what would be the last hint of fresh air for the next 5 hours. Trying to follow Martin inthrough the door was enough of an issue, but to top it all off there was a stubborn woman sitting right at the foot of the door refusing to stand up so everyone was trying to push around her and carrytheir heavy luggage over their heads to avoid hitting her. Martin tried to get her to move but she was a stubborn thing so there she sat for half the journey until a bunch of women had a proper go at her and she eventually stood up, only to sit again on the last leg of the trip. This chaos inside the train was recreated at every stop until we got to Gokarna, where many people got off. Martin and I found ourselves holed up between the 2 toilets, which after the presumably long journey prior to us getting on, did not smell very nice. Martin has no sense of smell so he got off lucky, while I on the other hand did all I could to avoid breathing.
We arrived in Margoa and caught a taxi that took us back to Arambol, where we spent the rest of the day and night cleaning up the house, washing our clothes, having a dip in the sea and then having a languid dinner enjoying real proper food for the first time in a week.
We were both sad to leave Kollur today.
The experiences that we had in Kollur was truly amazing, and we really got into a nice routine of arising early (6am), having a hot (!!) bucket wash before heading off to the temple where we would get our flowers and do our perambulations around the inner sanctum before joining the queue and going into see the Goddess. We often stayed to watch and join in on the procession, and then went to have something to eat before going back to our guest house and sleeping for a few hours. We repeated this all in the evening 12 hours later.
Kollur is a tiny village in the jungle, and it is a very conservative village. We were pretty much the only westerners in the village, aside from a few that occasionally ventured outof a nearby Seat of Living temple just outside of town. We got loads of attention, even moreso when we were at the temple. I found it difficult to concentrate while doing my perambulations as I could see a massive line of people watching us, and little kids waving trying to catch my gaze. I worried that some Hindus would be insulted seeing us in their spiritual place of worship, but Martin often commented on how people are probably more often then not happy and surprised to see how serious we are about the practice. We met many people at the temple who were really excited and happy that we were at Shree Mookambika.
The only downside about Kollur was the food. I was warned before going that the place is perfunctory eating...proper pilgrim food...but I hoped that Martin would be wrong. Well I was wrong!
I quickly went off thalis after my 2nd day, and to my delight were taken to a dabba (bythe Baba and his partner) where they served masala dosas and idliis all day long. So I started to order dosas and then went off them. And then moved onto to parathas, and went off them. I completely lost my appetite to eat, and spent ages trying to swallow bits of idlii and sambar. Martin was much more stoic than I and was able to keep up his appetite, even though he was tiring of the food. There was a huge lack of fresh fruit and veg there aside from bananas and apples, so we started to feel a bit unwell from that. Martin was really excited when he found bits of cooked tomato in his thali subjii one day!!! I did have a moment of imagination about lemon sugar crepes, so I went and found some lemons. We ordered parathas and I went to work envisioning lemon sugar crepes...only in the form of a paratha. While it got many curious looks from everyone else in the restaurant, I was happy as a clam...for 1 meal.
Martin took me to the Saurparnika river, which is a gorgeous river in the jungle - proper Jungle Book style- that apparently comes from the Kodachadri mountain (which we visited the next day..moreon this later). I was worried about snakes as we made our way through the jungle to the banks of the river, but there was none to be seen and Martin and I had the most beautiful place to ourselves. There was a small waterfall nearby that I though looked exactly like all the Indian waterfalls you see on plates and on posters. The water was cool and refreshing, and even though I had to swim fully clothed, I was completely rejuvenated. We spent a good part of the day there just reveling in the beauty. A group of monkeys came by and Martin fed them bananas. It was a lovely day, and so nice to be away from the noisy and chaotic village.
The next day after going to Shree Mookambika, we took a jeep up to Kodachadri mountain, where it is said that the Saint of Kollur sat and meditated for 15 years until he could see a ray of light (Shree Mookambika). When he went to the ray of light, he found a massive gold disk, which is now in the pakara of Shree Mookambika.
Once we got to the top of the mountain, Martin led me uphill for about 45 minutes, stopping to pay homage to a Ganesh temple along the way until we got to the top where we came across another temple. There was a priest in the temple, and we had a brief little puja with him before venturing on. Martin wanted to get to the Saint's meditating post, and I, unaware of what lay ahead, agreed. Suddenly, for the next 30 minutes we were scaling down rocky crevices, holding onto tree roots and hiking uphill. I got very scared and tried to back outof it, but Martin urged me on and so finally we made it, after climbing up a rickety ladder and slippery rock face.
I was pretty grumpy at this point, so sadly the experience at the shrine wasn't as special as I would have liked it to be, but at the end of the day I made it - even though I was in flip flops and deathly afraid!
Kollur was an amazing place to be, and I am so glad that we spent so much time there together. It was a really bonding experience, and we had alot of really special and amazing things happen to us there. As we drove off this morning, I felt a bit of a tug on my heart but remembered that this place has always been and always will be so we can come back at anytime. And now we are off on a new adventure!
We will stay in Arambol til Friday or Saturday getting massages, eating fruit salads, and doing yoga, before we head off to Varanasi. I probably won't write much this week so check back on the weekend.
xxxxxx

Holy COW!

Finally made it to a computer, and the keyboard is all mixed up so pls excuse any spelling mistakes!

So I am here. Finally. It only took an extra week in the end for me to sit and wait in London for mz visa to India to arrive, but it was definitely worth the wait.

I left London on Jan 13 and flew direct on Jet Airways (definitely recommended!) to Bombay where I had a 3 hour lazover before catching a 4 am flight to Goa. Stepping off the plane in Bombay was a shock to my system as I really did not have anz idea of when I was going to be flzing out so when I got my visa, suddenly I was off without any preparation. Leaving soggy and grey London for humid sticky Bombay was a shock. And suddenly I was here.

Flying to Goa was a quick easy 1 hr flight where I was fed delicious idlii and sambar. And then touch down at 5 am to arrive in the arms of Mr Martin Pennels. We were thrilled to be reunited, and to put the past week behind us.

Martin had hired a car to pick me up, so it was a smooth and easy drive to Aarambol. Goa was still dark but hot and sticky, and the streets were alreadz crawling with activity. I commented to the driver how 24 hrs India really is, and he laughed saying that in Goa this is empty compared to life in Delhi and Mumbai.

Martin and I spent Friday and Saturday in Arambol meeting up with friends and eating reallz well. Lots of fruit and salads. And of course lemon sodas. Arambol is full of tourists, but apparentlz is quieter due to the visa changes that have come into place. The main tourists are Russian, and thez have made Arambol very expensive as they refuse to barter, which means that Goans can always charge more and get what thez charge. We are staying at Fiz"s home outside of Arambol, so its verz peaceful and quiet.

Martin and I decided to leave Goa and head to Kollur, home of Shree Mookambika goddess, in the jungle for 6 days and then return to GOa for a few days on our way up north. So we headed to Margoa to catch a train that would take us to Karnatika state. We fought our waz onto the local train and sat smooshed between Indians. On the seat that 3 would fit most comfortably, we had 5 or 6. We were definitely the odd people out on the train, which commanded much attention.

I had a lovely conversation with a woman and her family from Bombay traveling to Karnatika for a 3 daz pilgrimage. She was thrilled with Martin"s Hindi, and with my studying. We talked for a long time, after which, upon disembarking, grasped my hand thrust a little bottle of nail polish in it and said she would pray for us. It is in these moments in India where I am always amazed bz the generosity of people here, wanting so much to reach out and make a connection and always leave a little gift.

We exited the train in Udapi onlz to find out that we were at the wrong stop and had to hire a taxi to take us to Kollur. It was night and the air was thick with smoke, incense, and humidity. I fell asleep onlz to be awoken by Martin who pointed out a festival happening in a village where a small child was balancing on a tightrope to a throng of musicians. It made me think of the book "A Fine Balance". I fell back asleep until we arrived in Kollur.

Kollur is a tinz little town in the jungle. It boasts 2 small high streets and one of the most holy sites in the South of India ' Shree Mookambika. The Goddess sits inside a little shine inside a big temple and is adorned with flowers, beautiful clothes and a huge emerald on her chest. People come day and night to worship her and to ask for assistance.

We are the only Western people here aside from a lone woman who I just saw last night.

We get alot of attention here, and it makes me very uncomfortable. Not only do I worry about how I am perceived, but I also worry about my actions in the temple. Martin tells me not to worry as the bus loads of pilgrims from other parts of India who are Hindu have no idea what they are doing! We attend the morning AArti at 7 am, and the evening AArti at 7 pm. I like the morning one the best as it isnćt quite so busy, but there is still a heaving throng regardless of the time of day. The first time I saw the Goddess I was so focused on not falling over bz all the people pushing me that I did not have a chance to take in what beauty I have seen and then it was all over. Martin told me to ignore everyone else, no matter how much they are pushing. Its over in a matter of seconds, so those few moments are very important.

The first night we attended AArti, we were befriended by a travelling Sadhu and his partner - his May. Thez were from Madras and were quite old, but so unbelievablz lovely. This friendship also garnered the attention of manz people, which again made me uncomfortable. We ate dinner with the couple at the Temple and met up with them on Tuesdaz morning before thez headed to Madras. Thez blessed us manz times and kept pulling little gifts out of their वोर्न बैग स्तुफ्फेद विथ ओद्दितिएस। थे वेरे अ लोवेली कोउप्ले एंड इ वास साद तो सी थेम गो।
Today is Wednesday andwe have just been to the temple. We have discovered a delicious restaurant in town that serves food other than plain thalis ("meals") so I am over the moon. Masala dosas, parathas, idlii all at all hours. Ićm thrilled.
Not much on our agenda except a temple inaugeration at 12 noon and then evening Aarti. Life is reallz quiet here and there is nothing to do when the heat is at its peak. The heat is relentless and can be quiet chokingly hot. We sleep for hours in the afternoon for this reason.
We are here until Sunday and then will head back to Goa for a few days.
Hope you are all well and happy. Big love.
xxxxxxxx

Flamenco bootcamp and rain falling from the skies

Hola!
Granada is definitely the place to be fore anyone with a romantic heart and mind....it is a truly beautiful city. I arrived late Monday after a 7 hr bus trip from Alicante...a drive that should normally take about 4 hrs. I got in late in the dark and was a bit nervous trying to navigate through the narrow cobbled streets around the cathedral...incredibly beautiful but very shadowed...to find my pension that Martin had set me up in. After searching aimlessly I found it in the opposite direction to where Martin told me to go...typical man-woman communication perhaps? LOL.
I am staying at the Hostal Zakatin run by a Moroccan man. It is hidden in a pedestrian alley that is chock full of Middle Eastern and Indian imports during the day. So many trinkets and treasures to behold...I feel like I am back in Morocco!
Tuesday was the first day that I had to explore the city. I arose early to get to a market to get some fresh fruit and then headed off to a yoga class, which I found eventually. The class wasn´t what I had wanted, but it was a good wake up to a body that sat in one position for 7 hrs yesterday. I was able to follow most of the directions which was good but I did have to peek over to the students on my sides to make sure that I was oncourse with everyone else.
I spent the remainder of the day roaming around the Arabic quarter, eating my first meal since Monday (a delicious and heavily seasoned falafel...bliss in a mouthful) and observing the passersby. Granada is an interesting mix of street kids with dogs-on-a string, high society types whizzing by on high heels, students hanging out in gangs, hippies relaxing in the square, and tourists. This is prime tourist season as the weather is MOSTLY agreeable (more on that later) and warm. The summer its hot, but not as hot as other places in Spai where the country just sizzles....
I met up with Ana who is a French girl who is a flamenco dancer/teacher here in Granada. We met for a coffee and chatted about life here in Granada. She encouraged me to come take a class with her at her studio prior to our private lesson...I was a bit nervous but figured Hell I´m here to work and learn so lets go!
Anas studio is a gem in the city where flamenco is abound but studio space is impossible. Apparently the reason that makes finding a dance studio so impossible is the noise factor - people call the police to complain about the noise and the police shut down the dance studios. Ana´s studio is in the basement of an artistic building on a very nondescript street off a plaza.
I went with Ana to the studio and met the other people who were there for the class with devastatingly handsome Pepe- a Nazi of a flamenco instructor! I was really nervous when I realised that I was totally out of league with everyone else, but Ana stood in front of me so that I could catch the footwork. Pepe´s feet sounded like a hammer, every sound was distinct, deliberate, and fast. At first the warm up was something that I understood and could do with ease but once the class moved into harder technique and then a choreography I was lost. But I took it in stride and attempted to complete what I could. The class was also spoken in fast Spanish so I was really concentrating on what was being said so that made things a bit slower for me. But I was really proud of myself afterwards and committed to coming back for the rest of the week. I am here to get my butt kicked right, so I may as well be submissive to the experience. Pepe encouraged me to come back and not too worry as the class have been working on this for weeks.
I took a private lesson with Ana afterwards and it was really good to work with her as she was patient and really funny. She switched into Spanish so that I can start learning faster. I am as determined to learn spanish as I am to getting better in flamenco so really now is the right time to learn both. Ana has taken me under her wing and is helping me get sorted in the city. I may start to teach a belly dance class in her studio 1X a week so that I can come into Granada, teach and take some flamenco classes. It is very important for me to keep active in dance as being in mountains can really turn one into a couch potato.
I wandered the city after my dance class and got caught in a few major rain storms.
I did not pack any proper shoes aside from a pair of flipflops and my heeled red shoes...somehow I figured that the weather would be the same in the mountains- hot and dry. Well I was really really wrong, even though the weather is warm the rain has been falling down in torrential downpours to the point that it bounces off the ground and big mean puddle form in a matter of seconds. Everywhere you turn you see African men standing on the corner selling knock off brand name umbrellas and I´ll be damned if I´m not tempted to buy one!
I arose early this morning to tryto get to an ashtanga yoga class but alas it in the evening so I´m left to my own devices. Probably wandering the city, have a few plates of tapas and off to flamenco in the early evening. Tonight Ana and I are going to go to a flamenco jazz bar to check out some music and take a load off. I´m thankful for having met her as shes lived here for 8 yrs and knows the city inside out.
Other than that I´m doing well and happy. Martin made it to the UK despite the volcanic ash problems and has started his first day of college today. I hope all goes well for him, he was nervous about his essay so hopefully it all came together in the last few hours (that man loves to work under pressure seriously).
I´ll report back in a few days, until then Adios!!
xxoxoxoxo

Villajoyosa - City of Joy

Hola....

I am siting in the perfect Bohemian apartment tucked away by the sea, tired but happy after a lovely dinner on the terrace with bits of rich wine and a lazy meander through town. The scene is Villajoyosa, a quaint and crumbling gypsy town sandwiched in between the infamous "shagging towers" of Bendidorm and the bustling city of Alicante. Martin and I arrived about 8 pm, and parked our car by the sea. I caught sight of a lone couple necking on the rocks and pointed them out to Martin with a mischevious comment.

We made our way through the cobble stoned and narrow streets flanked with crumbing multi coloured buildings painted in electric blue, rose pink, terra cota orange and buttercup yellow; rod iron terraces strewn with laundry; old women sitting on their doorsteps watching the world go by; gypsy children running through the plaza; a chicken tethered to a string surrounded by people; flamenco guitar floating through the air; and the brisk sea salt twang in my nose. Ahh its so nice to be back near the sea.

Martin's friend Mark decided to live here after literally pulling off the road on the way to Barcelona one he saw the sign on the motorway for Villajoyosa- City of Joy. Mark found the perfect treasure here...not too far from Alicante, but far enough away to get a genuine feel for this little town. Its absolutely charming in every glance, and very idealistic in a genuine way about old Spain. Mark has settled here and has written and directed a fabulous and touching 14:53 minute short film that will be entered into film festivals all over the word. Wonderful film.

Villajoyosa may have come by its name quite honestly. It is known to be the Chocolate City of Spain. Villajoyosa has imported chocolate from Ecuador and Venezuela starting in the 18th century. Mark told me that about 2 days a month the entire town reeks of melting chocolate, and his mouth was watering so much that he was looking in windows trying to figure out where the smell came from. I hope to be so fortunate when I awake tomorrow morning!

I am off to Granada tomorrow for 7 days of flamenco. Martin is heading back to London for school till the 17th of May, so I decided to hit up the infamously beautiful city of Granada and get incorporated with the flamenco scene there. I have been in contact with a girl Ana whom I met on Facebook via my friend and previous teacher Ana in Vancouver. Granada Ana has agreed to do intensive private lessons with me in addition to taking her technique classes so I am very excited. I am also excited but very nervous about practicing my Spanish- it is amazing being with Martin as he is fluent but it is time for me to learn as I really want and desire to speak Spanish. So me going off on my own and getting to know a city and people in another language will be an adventure in itself. I am also looking forward to doing some yoga there in Granada, and hitting up the only authentic (and open!!) Moorish hammam (bath).

Being in Spain has been amazing- it has been so lovely to get back and reconnect with not only myself but with Martin and the village. The days go by quickly but are relaxing and filled with things necessary to life- preparing food, cleaning, watching the mountains and the sunset, early to bed as to arise early the next morning. The mountains are vivid and always changing, and the only noises you hear are the birds singing or the goats bells as they wander down the rambla on the way to a green pasture. Its a very simple existence, one that I didn't think possible to live. But I am very happy and content at the moment, and the fact that I can get up and see a spotless blue sky, sun on my back, and birds song in my ears while savouring a cup of tea is full contentment. And not one that I was to relinquish too soon.

Anyway off to bed...Happy Mommas Day to you all.

xxxxxx

Summer?

Its been ages since I have sat down and wrote, so I figured that this sleepy morning may be the perfect opportunity to catch up. I've just awoken after getting to bed very late, Martin was up at 6 am and went off to work on about 3 hours of sleep. The only thing I've missed out on this morning was my morning run, so I will have to get out of the house at some point and do some exercise.
I am doing really well here in London. I sometimes can't believe that I actually picked myself up and made such a huge change, but then again it doesn't really feel like such a massive change as I feel really at home here in the UK. Martin was been the most supportive, hospitable, and accepting host here to me and I feel so lucky. He has been working nights for the past 10 days so we have been a bit like ships passing in the night but I managed to stay very active with dance classes. We have been here in London now for 3 weeks and I've managed to secure 2 jobs, dance a little bit, and network with lots of other dancers. I'm enjoying taking classes and I'm learning alot from Anne White. I have also met this male dancer named Shafeek who was a principle dancer in Mahmoud Reda's dance company back in Egypt. Shafeek is married to one of London's top dancers, and together they have an Arabian dance company. Shafeek said that he would like to audition me for the company, which I would be absolutely thrilled about. I really want to dance in a professional capacity and it seems a bit like this is the premise of what Ninawa was supposed to be, except Ninawa just wasn't ever going to get there. Shafeek warned me that although he is a gentleman, in rehearsal he is very strict and I assured him that I had PLENTY of experience in that field...dancing with Moh and Moh was probably the most abuse I've ever received and I've probably taken enough of it to last my next few lifetimes!
I've secured a Saturday night job working at the Proud Camden club/lounge/bar. I'm the VIP guest list girl, and I'm working 7 pm - 1 am. I just had my 3rd weekend, and it went pretty smooth. It's good for the most part, and I actually really enjoy it. It gets a bit hectic at 11:30pm when everyone shows up to come inside and we have to regulate but it's fun talking to people from all over. Seeing how absolutely drunk people gets is a real turn off though, and it puts me off drink. I have seen so many little wisps of girls go into the club and emerge being dragged out by the friends, so drunk that they can't walk or are being carried. I can't ever fathom being so drunk that I can't function, and at this stage in my life that novelty has more than worn off. I enjoy a few glasses of wine, but then I'm off to bed and ready to start the new day with a clear head.
I've also secured a job in Brixton (south London) at a cafe called Rosie's Cafe. Rosie is a friend of Sarah's boyfriend Toby and is a very successful 30 year woman who owns this amazing cafe. Roise put out a cookbook last year and its been selling like hot cakes so she has had more people coming into the cafe as a result. The cafe is really kitchy with mismatched plates, homemade grub and gorgeous coffees. Its a tiny little shop but I really like it alot. Its definitely the kind of cafe that I envision myself to have! But for now I'll just work there. I'm there 3 days a week doing the closing shift. Its a quick tube ride from where I'm at to there and I'm happy working as a barista again...making a good coffee is very satisfying.
My life here is quite full and I'm focused on getting out and networking as well as making new friends. I've started doing yoga 2 - 3 days a week with Martin and it has been very beneficial. I managed my first headstand the other days and was completely elated for 2 days about it. I can't wait for my next class!!
The summer weather though has been a real sore point with me and the rest of England...it just doesn't exist. TO be fair I have been in hot weather for most of the year but this is summer and I'm done with the chill!!! Its been hovering around 18 degrees for most of July and its been raining like crazy. I didn't pack for this weather, so I've been layering up and wishing for my cozzies back at home. I keep hearing that summer is on its way...but we are also now into August and all I can smell is the sneaking in of autumn. Boo!
The sun is actually shining right now and is beckoning me to get myself sorted and go outside so I think I'll get moving here.
I hope you are all well and email me sometime!
xoxoxoxo

Vivo en Londres

Hola!!
I have just returned to London after a blissful month basking in 40+ heat in the mountains in the tiny Spanish village of Daimuz. Being back in London is a bit of an assault on all senses, the biggest one being the 22 degree weather that greeted us in a rainy torrent the second we emerged from the plane and descended onto the tarmack. Martin and I were definitely overdressed while standing at the Granada airport in our jeans, sweaters, and hats amongst all the burned- to- a- crisp sundress short wearing tourists groaning about heading back to the UK. But we were better off when we stepped out into the rain, protected by our hats and jumpers!!
Stanstead airport was a NIGHTMARE upon arrival...we think that too many planes arrived around the same time so the corridors leading to Immigration were chockful of people. There were security guards allowing only a certain number of people through at one time, so every few minutes the crowd stopped and we had to wait up to 5 minutes before moving forward again. This happened several times, and we were stuck in a stuffy wet corridor full of crying babies and tired people slugging forward complaining. Once we finally hit Immigration, Martin and I separated as he got to queue in the EU line up and I went to the non-EU passport holders line. The lineups for both were enormous, but I thought that I would clear before Martin...except I was wrong! Martin cleared in about 45 minutes, and it took me about 1 hr and 15 minutes. The immigration officer grilled me about why I was coming back into the UK, and finally let me go after asking me 3 times how long I was comng into the UK for. I could see Martin waiting for me, and I thought that he had collected our bags so that we could head to our cabbie who had been waiting for us for ages. Except our baggage hadn't come through due to a staffing issue...we didn't even have a carousel number! Finally one appeared so we raced over to carousel #2. Then the carousel stopped...and we were again waiting. People were losing their tempers and a pregnant woman had a go with one of the airport staff- which were very scarce to locate! Finally we got our bags and rushed out to meet our cabbie, who was patiently waiting. We got into his car and off we went on the M-11. Things were going great until we saw a sign "Accident Ahead" and then the trafiic stopped to a standstill. I passed out at this point, and awoke when we were in London. We got in a half 3, and crawled our way up the stairs at Ricky and Nicki's and passedout in bed.
We spent Sunday with Ricky and Nicki looking at their new home and passing an hour in the pub. I was reunited with a delicious halloumi cheese kabab that Martin had introduced to me when I was here in June and washed it down with a spicy ginger beer. Ahh blisssss.
Today (being Monday) Martin headed off with Ricky to his first day of work as a rigger working on a blockbuster movie (200 million dollar budget) starring Leo Di Caprio. I got up at 8:30am and spent basically the whole day applying for jobs on Gumtree (a Craigslist type website). The only response back was for a phone position working 11am - 10pm at an escort agency...this was listed as a receptionist at a dating service. A bit disheartening but I just have to keep positive and keep trying. I'm missing my friends and family a bit and really want to get myself into a routine. I am starting a bellydance class tomorrow night with Anne White so that is great, and I will attend the flamenco class with Jackie at the Greenwich Dance Art Academy on Wednesday. I'm missing dance so much right now, and I think that I will be set right after that. I do have my first booked show with BellyWorld on July 26th, its only paying 10 pounds but at least I can get some exposure and land some work for the future. Anne White has also asked me to perform in her next show, although I think that the July line up for the show is full so I may have to wait till August to dance.
I'd love to hear from you, I'm a bit homesick and lonely so email or call me if you have a chance. If you are dialing from Canada: 011447506552011. try using YAK 1015945 before the 01144 to save some money. Or find me on SKYPE: ashleygreeneyes and call me for free!

Thinking of you all.....
Ashley xoxo

Espana!

I'm just finishing up on my packing for Spain...hard to believe that this time is here already! I'm looking forward to getting to Spain and chilling, Martin says that the weather is hot and sunny with temperatures hovering around 40 C. Yay!! I'm looking forward to some proper Spanish heat. My flight is at 5:50pm, so I'm gonna head out of here around 2 pm...I gotta get to Stanstead airport which is a fair distance away so I'll need to allow for more time.
I've caught up on some sleep, which feels great and I went for a run in Greenwich park this morning. The weather is variable but warm. There was a massive thunder and lightning storm on Monday night which caused flash floods all over London, the sky was really dark grey with swirling clouds. It was quite ominous at best! I made a tasty ginger carrot butternut squash and sweet potato soup as it seemed fitting with the weather. Yum!!
I rested most of yesterday and did some much needed cleaning in Mandy's (Sarah's mom) room where I have been sleeping. The room is much better now and got a good vacuum so the dustmites have fled thankfully.
I did go to my first bellydance class with Anne White last night in Islington. Anne had asked me to perform for her beginner class, and I stayed on for her intermediate class. Anne was a pivotal dancer in London in the 80s and 90s, but doesn't really dance that much anymore aside from her monthly Planet Egypt events that are held at Darbouka club. Anne knows everyone in the UK and knows many dancers abroad (Raqia Hassan, Leila, Dina, Amani) so she is a good person for me to stay in touch with. She is going to put me in touch with some higher level working dancers here in London, as well as with her first teacher Suraya Hilal (!!!!) when she returns from abroad in August. I also met a young Turkish drummer Tash who was drumming for the class and expressed much interest in working with me when I get back from Spain. Tash is very talented and is also on the cusp of being signed to a record label! All in all it was a very good experience, and I feel that I have much to learn from Anne. Anne is a very large vivacious blonde with a huge personality and a bigger laugh. She is very relaxed in her style and also very Egyptian. I had a blast in her intermediate class and I have so much to learn from her. She talked to me afterwards about me contributing some of my personal style to the class so that the students learn something different. I was hugely flattered. Anne and Tash gave me some info on where to go for dancing work, and Tash is gonna help me crack into the Turkish scene, primarily weddings. I'm excited to come back from Spain and get my dance career started here! I am also very excited to study dance here and get inspired again. I have been stumbling along in Vancouver being completely flat and too busy in my dance life aside from flamenco, and London has so much to offer me creatively. This to me is one of the biggest reasons that I am here.
Anne's classes are very interesting. She told me that she teaches 6 - 7 classes a week and that she has many men students as well. A Chinese man in a business suit showed up with a scarf around his neck, and proceeded to remove the scarf from his neck and tie it around his hips! He is a professor of Chinese medicine and attends Anne's 2 Tuesday night classes with his wife! Most of the other women came to class in skirts and fancy work tops, Anne taught in skintight jeans! I was equipped in my usual Lululemon combo, so I felt really out of place! The beginner class started late as we were all having coffee together before all sauntering upstairs to have our "medicine" (as Anne calls it). The beginner class was super duper easy but it was good for me to have a look at Anne's teaching and style methods. In the end the beginner class ran for 45 minutes, and then I performed at the end. The intermediate class was bigger and we covered more ground. Anne absolutely sparkles with the dance energy and it was wonderful stepping back to watch her sail around the floor with her dynamic dance personality. I left feeling happy and excited.
Well I must be off, got so much to do before I head out...keep in touch. I won't have daily internet access but will try to get on every few days or so. I will also get a Spanish SIM card for my phone so I'll post it when I get it so that you can call me!
Lots of love,
ashley xoxoxo

Londontown awaits...

June 14, 2009:

I’m sitting at YVR waiting for my call to board the plane. For the most part I am feeling relatively calm, except for a few fleeting moments of panic that keep slipping by… “What the HELL am I doing???!!!”. My kept mother asking me several times today over and over “Are you sure that you really want to do this??” Simone’s constant questioning about this trip and pointing out that my Vancouver life is indeed very full- why do I need to run away?? (I love you girl!!) have both tested my personal resolve. But I am trusting in the higher purpose of my life that I need a change and that I am open to receiving this change. I am known to be a free spirited girl with slightly flighty intentions (as well as a having firm grasp on living life to the fullest) but never have I ever surrendered to the unknown. I am usually very calculated, slightly fearful and self- deprecating when it comes to my future. And here I am now standing in a line up stepping into the most bold and brave move I have ever done. Moving away.
Its amazing to me how in the final remaining days before a major change the very things that you want to change/leave suddenly become illuminated and bearable. I have been so weary of Vancouver and have a constant unfilled desire to high- tail away from here...yet when I sat last night surrounded by friends and deeply loved ones I realized how lucky I really am. Moving away to start fresh started to feel like a bad idea. But in order for me to get this out of my system, I need to try.
So I am on a plane to London. I am going with no job, work permit, home, or family. I am indeed alone. I do have friends there and I will make new friends of course, but nothing will ever be able to replace the ones I am leaving behind. I have left a job that I have really come to adore, unconditional love and security from vigilant friends and family, left a wonderful cozy home full of memories, and contracted out my dance gigs. In a lot of ways I am crazy. But I am also crazy for adventure.
Many things have started to line up for me when I decided this trip was more than a holiday. Situations started to appear that made me think that I am really being supported externally. Moving out of my home was a really hard thing to do, and I couldn’t even think about it before. But as things played out I realized that this was one of the ways I needed to free myself and just let go. I looked at it more as a gift in the end, and was thankful for the 3 years that I was able to live there. Sometimes we need a bigger push to allow ourselves to let go. In the end I don’t want to have 1 foot here in Vancouver, and another foot in London.
I had a poster hanging on the back of my door at my apartment. It was the Dahlai Lama’s 20 famous quotes. One of them said “Great love takes great risk”. This has become my personal mantra over the past few weeks when I suddenly have a seizing panic. I am not moving to the UK for Martin, but see him as a catalyst for my decision. For years I have talked about doing this and it’s finally come down to the wire to just go and do it. I needed to find myself a nice man who inspires me to do things…not just all stick to all talk and no action. I am standing in a position where many other women have stood before. I guess this is a part of the sacrifice that women in love make for men!
I realize how hard things will be for me, and I hope that I will be able to see the bigger picture when I am feeling down. I look forward to hearing from you and keeping in touch…the feeling of love is truly overwhelming and I thank everyone who is in my life. I also thank all of you who turned to out help me move and give lots of emotional support. And to my wonderful parents who now have my entire life in their living room…I’m so sorry!
With much love and hope,
Ashley xoxoxo

Gangamukti Project - Naganath's Mission

Today we discovered  that Naganath actually has an english site on Blogspot that is dedicated to his hunger strike mission in Benaras, India.  Martin is also uploading his interview with Naganath on YOUTUBE...although it is currently in Hindi only.  I will post the link regardless so that you can have a look.  But do check out this blog about the Ganga, it is worth a read.  The more we inform ourselves about what is happening to the Ganga, the better the chances that we can help contribute to its restoration.

www.gangamukti.blogspot.com

YOUTUBE:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHJuCE7luwM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kzm3hsKD11K

Bangkok Dance floors

I arrived in BKK last night after a really relaxing day in Chiang Mai with Tiggy and Daniel. We all met up for breakfast at this really lovely veggie restaurant where I had a gorgeous fresh juice- coconut pineapple ginger beetroot...YUM!

Daniel and Tiggy are both avid swimmers and Tiggy knew of a really great 50m pool out of the core of Chiang Mai so Daniel rented a scooter and fit himself, and us two ladies on it and off we went to the pool! It was so fun zooming around the city, and a great way to catch some cool air...it's getting really really hot!

We spent a couple hours in the pool and lounging on the side...the pool is marvelous and we were the only ones there! It was situated in a jungle like setting with rows of beautiful fanjipany flowers lining the side of the pool. It was really relaxing and again another good way to cool off.

I had a plan to meet up with Leanna and Mike for lunch, so Tiggy and I headed back to "A Taste..." (of course) where we met up with them and had a nice lunch. Mike and Leanna are in Chiang Mai for a few days before heading off to Laos. Tiggy works as a tour leader through Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam so she had lots of good advice to give them. I was sad to say goodbye to Leanna and Mike as they are so much fun, and have such great travel stories. Leanna and Mike have been travelling now for 6 months and have just returned from spending 48 days in Africa. Leanna is a psych nurse, and has landed a job in Sidney, Oz so Biggie (who is living there now...) will have a chance to reconnect with them when they end up there at the end of May.

Tiggy and I went to NAMO yoga for our last yoga class together :( . Daniel showed up, so the three of us sweated it out in the back row. It was an intense 2 hr class, and I was thankful that there was a shower there so that I could freshen up before my trip to BKK. I hated saying goodbye to Daniel and Tiggy...especially Tiggy as her and I have been inseparable since we met and she's such a lovely woman! I look forward to staying in touch with her and hope to join her on her Yoga Vacation tour that she plans to start soon that will tour SE Asia.

I headed off to BKK and had a smooth flight. Upon landing, I caught a private taxi to head to RamButtri road to book a guesthouse, change my clothes, and head out to meet up with Jordi (one of Martin's best friends) and his mates. The driver was really old and slow, and ended up taking me through the middle of a massive night market...it took almost 1 hr to go 15 blocks, and both him and I were swearing at each other and groaning about the crawl! I ended up getting dressed in the back of the cab...very discreetly although he probably couldn't see much anyway!

I made to to RamButtri Road after 10:30pm. The guest house I was hoping to stay in was closed. I went to a guest house next door and took a room there, for a whopping 300B. The room smelled terribly like drains, and didn't even have a sink! But I was desperate as Jordi was waiting for me at a club. I finally made it to the club and met up with Jordi, and a few of his crew. We were watching his friends' band play- two super powered rocky chicks making the most danceable and wicked-est music that I have heard in a while. After grooving for a bit, his crew wanted to go to a club in the entertainment district of Bangkok. One of Jordi's friends, a guy called Woody called "his" car and "driver" to come pick us up...suddenly I found myself in a souped up SUV that had leather interior, a glass window separating us from the driver, and blacked out windows. Turns out that Woody is the Jay Leno of Thailand...a very famous guy! Woody was awesome and really funny. It was good fun hanging out with him. We ended up going to this cheesy bar with lots of tourists and danced to old skool Madonna, Britney Spears (yeah I know!!) and other mixed tunes. It was fun though as there were loads of lady boys standing on podiums doing the most synchronized and stylistic dancing ever! I was also getting tipsy as I haven't drunk hardly a thing in all these months, (and I don't really drink) so the club was really amusing. After a while there, Jordi's friends wanted to leave. Jordi, however, had other plans for us so we stumbled into a cab and went to this gay club called "Hollywood" where his room mates were. The club was AMAZING and Jordi and I were the only white people there. The boys were all gorgeous, and so sweet. They all wanted to dance with me so I got to groove with really beautiful men and not have them expect anything from me! Jordi's roommates were an absolute riot and man could they MOVE! Jordi told me that at home they will watch music videos and memorize the dance moves so when they all go out together they can all do a show when the song comes on. I danced my heart out, and admittedly got really tipsy as the bartenders were really heavy handed with my drinks! The woman's bathroom was also very interesting...I couldn't tell who was a woman and who wasn't! We stayed until 4 am and then I went back to Jordi's to crash for a bit. I didn't get much sleep though as I was really focused on getting up early and getting back to Ram Buttri Road to get my bags, go do last minute shopping, get my hair and nails done...and eat my small hangover off. Jordi was quite shocked when I woke him up at 9 am told him that I was leaving...he had set his alarm for 11:30! But I had so much to do and time was slipping away, so I had to go.

I got all my errands done and ate loads of mango sticky rice...it's such a delicious dish and I have to thank Tiggy for turning me onto it! YUM!

I'm at Hong Kong airport now and am getting ready for the looong leg to Heathrow...13 hours. But I'm really excited about going to London. I am looking forward to breathing in fresh-ish air. Bangkok was muggy today and it made me feel a bit ill (hangover perhaps?...). Spring air is definitely what my body needs, and maybe it will get rid of this ever present Varanasi cough that refuses to leave...

I'll still be blogging although it may not be as exciting as I'll be back in a Western Country...but I'm so used to writing that I just don't want to stop!

***Thank you to all of you who have reached out to email me about my blog...it means so much that you are reading and more importantly LIKING what you are reading. This is something that I want to continue with so stay posted!***

namaste

Love from HK International Airport...

xoxoxo

Flying through the air with the GREATEST of EASE!

The Flight of the Gibbon- Rainforest Adventure

Tiggy and I decided to do an eco-zip line trek called The Flight of the Gibbon that was organized through my fav. veggie restaurant "A Taste From Heaven". The 3 hr zip-line tour takes you through the Northern Thailand jungle canopy

on high speed ziplines. It was really exciting amd extremely nerve racking as we were extremely high up, zooming through trees, and going over rivers. I am also scared of heights but it was really fun nevertheless...I thought it was time to start working on conquering my fear!! We were on the tour with 3 other couples: a couple from Munich, a Polish couple, and a really dysfunctional couple on their honeymoon...a 43 year old English bulldog type man and his blushing 19 year old Thai bride. I had a chance to chat with her while her husband was kicking up a fuss about something, and she told me that he was her first boyfriend. She also said that she wants to start working, as he owns a holiday resort in Kho Samui and wants to make some money of her own. But he won't let her...at lunch he freaked out on her for making a mistake when giving her email address to Tiggy and it escalated to the point of him screaming at her telling her to "F*** OFF!!" and embarrassing her in front of everyone. My heart broke for this poor girl who no doubt will be living a very miserable and potentially abusive life.

After our trek, we went to this lovely waterfall and hiked up the side to the top. The mountains remind me so much of BC, and it was lovely to breathe in the silky rich air. It was worth every penny and I'm so glad that I did something that challenged my fears in such an extreme way! he German girl on our tour started to cry when we got to the first platform and had to have the guide zip with her for the first hour!

Back in town I ran into Daniel (the London hairdresser from Kho Phangan who cut my hair) so him and I had a lovely lunch and as we were parting I ran into Mike and Leanna who had just arrived in Chian Mai and were actually walking around looking for me! I invited them to join Tiggy, James, and I to go to the temple for dinner but Leanna was really sick so only Mike joined us. We all headed over to the temple, but it looked like it was shut down for the night so there was no food for us! So we went back to "A Taste..." and feasted on pad thai, fresh spring rolls, massaman curry, rice, and mushroom cakes. It was sad to say goodbye to James, he is very comical and always has a wise crack on the edge of his tongue. Tigs, Mike, and I went to the night market to meet up with Daniel, and we headed out for a drink at the Rasta Bar where we sat on the dicey and slightly rotted rooftop patio. It was a lovely evening...especially as it is my last night in Chiang Mai! I am going to London on Sunday, so I am flying back to BKK on Saturday night where I will hook up with Jordi and go out and sample some of Bangkok's fantastic nightlife. The London trip was obviously very unexpected, but I am very excited and happy to go there. I'm gonna freeze though, so I'm gonna have stock up on long sleeved shirts in BKK at the market so that I am prepared! I'll be coming home now on the 16th....so I stil have some holiday time left. Yipee!!!

So I'll see you soonish....xoxox

Fried Pineapple Rice Recipe

Recipe from "A Taste From Heaven" Restaurant in Chiang Mai... www.tastefromheaven.com

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups Brown Rice, cooked

2 cloves crushed and minced garlic

One Tbsp butter

1/2 Cup Pineapple

small bunch of Spring Onions

4-5 pieces of Baby Corn, chopped into rounds

TVP, uncooked

1/2 tbsp Indian curry or ginger powder

1sp. sugar

1/2 tbsp mushroom powder (or soup mix)

dark or "black" soy sauce

METHOD:

Fry garlic with butter until golden. Add in all the veggies and pineapple until cooked. Add rice and spring onions and mix all together. Add ginger/curry powder, mushroom powder, 1 sugar and 5 "shots" of dark soy sauce. Cook until brown.

This was one of my favorite dishes that I made...let me know if you've attempted it and how it turned out. The measurements are not precise...so use your own discretion and taste buds!

:: LINKS::

Here is a list of the places that I stayed in around India and Thailand as well as some other recommendations on things to do, yoga teachers, and things to see.

::INDIA::
Mumbai: Bentley's Hotel 17 Oliver Rd, Colaba +9122871846 bentleyshotel@hotmail.com http://www.bentleyshotel.com/

Arambol, GOA: Hotel Ave Maria H.No 22 Modlo Vaddo +918322242974

Kochi, KERALA: Maple Regency Hotel and Residence XL/1511 Cannon Shed Road +914842371711 mapleregency@airtelmail.in

Kumili, KERALA: Hotel Ambadi Junction Thekkady Bypass Road +91 4869224617, 211015 sureshgreenview@yahoo.com

Trivandrum, KERALA: Greenland Lodge Thampanoor +912328114, +912323485

Delhi: (close to airport) Hotel Eurostar A-27/1 Road No. 1 Mahipalpur Extn. http://www.hoteleurostar.in/ hoteleurostar@hotmail.com

Varanasi, UTTER PRADESH: Alka Hotel/Teerth Guest House D.8/9 Kalika Gali (find them through the Alka at Meer Ghat)

Jaisalmer, RAJASTHAN: Hotel Haveli +919982098489, +912992252552 jsm_issac@yahoo.co.in

Pushkar, RAJASTHAN: Hotel Marudhar Kapaleshwas Road (near camel fairground) +911452772415

Jaipur, RAJASTHAN: Umaid Mahal C-20B/2 Bihari Marg, Bani Park +911412201952 http://www.umaidmahal.com/ reservation@umaidmahal.com

::THAILAND::

Bangkok: At Home Guest House 117 Tanao Road, Phanakorn +6622814056 athome117@hotmail.com

Big Blue, Kho Phangan: Haad Yuan beach, +66(086) 470 2625

Chiang Mai: VIP Guesthouse

::YOGA::

Sivanada Yoga Ashram, Neyyar Dam (Trivandrum) India http://www.sivananda.org/ndam/

Wild Rose Yoga and Sauna, Chiang Mai, Thailand http://www.wildrosesauna.com/

Namo Yoga Centre, Chiang Mai, Thailand http://www.namochiangmai.com/

Blooming Lotus Yoga, Ko Phangan, Thailand http://www.bloominglotus.ca/

::OTHERS:::

Ethos Vegetarian Restaurant, Bangkok http://www.ethosnet.biz/

Omelet Shop Near clock Tower, Jodphur, India (yummmmmy...the cook goes through 8000 eggs a day!)


Babaji Shivanada: YOUTUBE http://www.youtube.com/watchv=Ta1cZYXMShl


Swami Naganath: YOUTUBE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kzm3hsKD11k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHJuCE7luwM

Water Valley Tour (Keralan Tourism) +914842371761/2369811 touristdesk@satyam.net.in

"A Taste from Heaven" Veggie Restaurant + Ecotours, Chiang Mai, Thailand 237-239 Thapae Rd. Tel: +6653208803 http://www.taste4heaven.com/

Emerald heart

So I have found the peace and serenity that I have been searching for in Thailand...Chiang Mai! It is a really lovely city and is super chill...and the air is actually fresh! It's still pretty hot but there is a lovely mountain breeze that whips through the streets and untangles the sweat from ones' brow. I found a lovely yoga school (NAMO) quite close to my guesthouse just outside Tai Phai Gate. I went to my first Vinyasa class last night and wow was it hard! But sooo good..I sweated buckets and stretched to my maximum capacity. I can't wait till tonite's class already!
I met a really lovely woman Tiggy in the class who reminded me alot of my friend Kim whom I met at the Sivanada Ashram. Tiggy and I came back to my hangout - a beautiful vegetarian restaurant called "A Taste of Heaven" and had a luscious feast and talked for hours about life and yoga. I'm doing a cooking class at "A Taste.." tomorrow where I will cook 6 dishes so I invited her to come and sample my inexperienced Thai cooking! We are also planning on going on a Zip Line Trek perhaps on Friday so that should be exciting! Zooming through the jungle at 60km an hour...YIPEE!
I spent yesterday with Diego who took me to a hotel down yet another nondescript residential street (with Thai prostitutes hanging out the door having a leisure afternoon) to go for a swim in a beautiful pool. It was so nice to sit away from the world with water lapping at my feet. I spent 4 hours there reading and swimming and was grateful for the serenity. I went back afterward to "A Taste..." for lunch and ended up meeting this really nice man James from South Cali who lives here in Chiang Mai. We shared the remnants of my spring rolls and I tried a few dishes that he had while we talked about India, the differences btwn Hinduism and Buddhism, and other thought provoking subjects. It was a very stimulating conversation, and James was picking my brain alot about India. I was very happy to share my stories with him, and he encouraged me to be a writer and share all that I experienced! The owner of the restaurant (Roy) came and sat with us and brought us some Gin and tonics (he's a proper english man!!) so I had a nice stiff drink before stumbling off to my yoga class. LOL.
James, Roy, Tiggy, and I are going to go to a nearby Sikh temple on Friday night for free vegetarian food so that should be fun. I may go a bit early and check out the temple.
I'm feeling a bit better and clearer, and ready to come home and sort myself out. I'm looking forward to getting back to work, making some much needed money and closing down my life there. I've got big dreams and plans and I think that it will all work out. I just have to believe and trust. Its a stuggle for a Type A personality like me who loves to control every aspect of my life down to the T but maybe I need to start taking a leap of faith. And just believe, baby, believe.
Anyway I'm off to cook some fabulous dishes...I'll post the recipes!
xoxox